LED lights are much more efficient that other forms of lights such as halogen and xenon, as they use less power, give off less heat, and produce nearly the same amount of light. The biggest advantage, though, is that they last much longer than other kinds of bulbs.

When you want to get LED lights for your motorcycle, there are a few different kinds of lights that are available so you need to ask yourself first which purpose you’re getting the lights for:

• Headlights
• Turn signals
• Auxilary lights
• Decoration

Since LED lights for motorcycles fit in all of these categories, we decided to put together a list of our favorite lights from each category!

Best motorcycle LED headlights

LED headlights are not fixtures for motorcycles and they’re a little trickier to install than normal headlights, but if you’re up for the DIY project of installing the LED headlights then you’ll get longer lasting lights(100+ times longer than halogen or xenon) which are still very bright and consume less energy.

1) SEALIGHT Motorcycle LED conversion kit

If your bike uses standard H4 halogen bulbs, then you’re in luck and you really don’t need to look any further. The SEALIGHT LED conversion kit uses an amazingly designed LED bulb that just fits into the same H4 socket that your regular halogen bulb fits in.

It produces a good high beam and a good low beam and even though it’s very bright, it will not blind oncoming traffic at night, which is a huge plus.

The bulb is rated for 6000 lumens and can work with both 12V and 24V DC, just like your halogen bulb.

Since the bulb is a tiny bit larger than a typical halogen bulb, you may need to do a bit of adjusting here and there when you install it. Otherwise, this is by far the easiest way to convert your bike headlights to LED.

2) 7 Inch Round LED Conversion Kit for Harley Davidson

If your Harley Davidson bike has a 7 inch headlight assembly, then this kit should work for you. The manufacturer has a more detailed list of compatible bikes in their description page.

While there are plenty of 7 inch LED headlight kits for Harleys available online, this one really caught my eye because it is so multifunctional.

The beauty of LED lights is that a single assembly can produce a wide spectrum of colors, and this particular light takes full advantage of that.

You actually are able to get 5 different kinds of light from this setup:

• Low beam, much like the normal low beam you use on your bike(1800 Lumens)
• High beam, much like the normal high beam you use on your bike(3600 Lumens)
• Angel Eyes, in which the right and left side will be illuminated but the center will be dark
• Right turn signal angel eye, in which the right side will glow amber
• Left turn signal angel eye in which the left side will glow amber

Installation is pretty straightforward and you can get this up and running on your Harley in about half an hour. For some models, you may need to do some minor drilling to get the fitment correct.

If you’re using the turn signals too, then while wiring, you simply run the turn signal wires into the controller, too.

The whole assembly is waterproof, of course. You can also get it to work with any bike that has a 7 inch headlight, but you just need to make sure you have the proper connectors(H4).

3) 7 Inch LED Motorcycle Headlight + 2 x 4.5 inch side lights

This offering by Sunpie caught our eye and made our list because you’re getting 3 lights in a single kit. There is one main 7 inch headlight assembly, as well as 2 4.5 inch fog lights that you can mount on the side.

These will work fine if you have a 7 inch fitting area, and H4 or H13 connectors. The low beam has an intensity of 1500 lumens and the high beam has an intensity of 2000 lumens, and can run on 10-30V of DC power.

The entire assembly is made of aluminum and is waterproof, rated IP65.

Installing these lights is a little tricky since there are no insturctions in the packaging, but if you’re up for a little DIY work then it is a fairly small and short project.

You may have to experiment with the brackets and rings to see which one works properly before attempting to install, so bear that in mind.

Since these headlights are all aftermarket and designed to fit a whole lot of bikes you need to be prepared to do a bit of drilling or sanding to get them to work.

All in all, after all the effort, it’s definitely worthwhile since the lights are much brighter and the color is much better, too.

Best Motorcycle LED turn signals

While one of the models we listed in LED headlights did have turn signals, you may also opt for getting separate turn signals.

In that case, we’ve listed some of our favorite turn LED turn signals for motorbikes here:

1) Universal flexible LED turn signals

This inexpensive option gives you 4 turn signals(two for the front and two for the back). The assembly is made of flexible rubber, and glows bright amber, perfect for a turn signal.

If your bike has a 10cm hole for the turn signal assembly then this will fit – you may have to play with it a little but it will be nice and snug:

• Honda All Models & Years ( Front or Rear)
• Yamaha All Models & Years ( Front or Rear)
• Suzuki All Models & Years ( Front or Rear)
• Kawasaki All Models & Years ( Front or Rear)
• BMW All Models & Years ( Front or Rear)
• KTM All Models & Years ( Front or Rear)
• DUCATI All Models & Years ( Front or Rear)
• BUELL All Models & Years ( Front or Rear)
• APRILI All Models & Years ( Front or Rear)

The size of each light is 11 cm by 2.5 cm, which is small enough to not be bulky but big enough to be easily visible.

Installation is super easy, since each light just has a negative and positive lead coming out of it that you hook up to the turn signal wiring and you’re good to go.

This light will only work with a 12V relay, so make sure your voltage is correct before you buy.

2) 2 piece arrow LED turn signal

These lights are a little smaller and low profile than the lights listed above, but they’re still very bright with 14 LEDs. The fitment is universal(10 cm) so if you bike has a 10 cm hole for the turn signal assembly this will work fine as you just have to screw it in.

However, every bike is slightly different and you may need to add a washer or adapter to get it to fit properly.

You need to have a 12V relay for these to work, please do not try powering these with more than 12V! Also, halogens run off of AC power, so if you had halogens before, you will need to double check and make sure that the supply is DC current and not AC current.

AC current will destroy these lights!

Due to the nature of LED lights you may find that the light blinks too fast – in this case, you’ll need to add a 6 OHM resistor between the LED and the positive terminal(two lights is 2 resistors).

LED Auxiliary lights for motorcycles

Some models of motorcycles, especially Harleys have three headlights instead of one: one main light and two auxiliary lights, also known sometimes as fog lights.

1) WeCade 4.5 inch auxiliary light for Harley Davidson

These LED lights are designed to work with Harley Davidson motorbikes. The brackets are not included(since your Harley most likely already has the auxiliary light brackets), and they fit with an H4 plug.

If your Harley is earlier than 2004 and has a spade style mounting then you’ll need an extra harness to mount these lights.

LEDs are awesome because their life span is so long – these are rated for 50,000 hours!

These lights will take anywhere from 9 to 32 volts of DC current(not AC) and each light is rated for 1440 LM. Because there are no moving parts, it is also very sturdy.

2) 4″ 20W Auxiliary/Headlights for Motorcycles

If you want a more modular solution, then this pair of 4″ LEDs are a good option because they simply attach to your handlebars or any bar on your motorbike using the included adjustable mount.

Each light is rated for 2000 lumens, so you’ll effectively get a total power of 4000 lumens from both lights.

Please note that these lights are not DOT approved and can’t replace your existing DOT approved headlight.

The beauty of these lights is that there is virtually no modding required – the lights can just clamp on and you’re done!

An additional bonus feature is a 2A USB outlet which you can charge your mobile phone from. Most phones can indeed be charged at 2 A so you should not have any compatibility issues.

The LEDs themselves are capable of accepting 9 to 85V of DC current so as long as you have DC current you should not have to worry at all about the lights burning out.

They have a lifespan of about 30,000 hours.

The packaging is quite thorough as you get all the necessary hardware and instructions to install these LEDs on your bike.

3) SUPAREE 2x LED Auxiliary Fog lights for motorcycles

Like the above kit, these are also modular auxiliary lights for motorcycles that can be bought as a set of two lights. The clamp mounting system is really easy to use and can fit wherever you have bars on your bike.

The build is very sturdy and solid, made from die cast aluminum and they’re both waterproof and rust proof. Installation is very easy, you just need to clamp the light, attach it, and hook it up to a 9-32V DC current supply on your bike.

The biggest handlebar these will fit on is 7/8 of an inch so be mindful of that before ordering. These lights look exactly like the ones on the BMW K1600, but they’re not a totally plug and play replacement. You may have to use a resistor and do some wiring to get them to work properly.

Decoration

1) AURA RGB LED lights with remote

If you’re looking to bling up your motorcycle with lights in 16 possible colors, look no further than the AURA RGB lighting system.

This is a ten piece kit with LED strips in various sizes that you can stick anywhere on your bike, like inside the rims, along the seat, or wherever you want.

They’re 100% waterproof and work best on fairings, the engine, and the wheels. You could use them as taillights but I would not recommend it.

You can use the included remote to change the light colors as your mood dictates. They’ll install very cleanly and you won’t even be able to see them unless and until you turn them on.

Final thoughts

Thanks to LEDs being more and more easily and cheaply available, you can replace many of the lights on your motorcycle with LED lights to get brighter, more efficient, and longer lasting lighting.

Introduction

If you are asking yourself – why restore a motorbike when several other agencies are doing proper professional restoration for some dollars, then you have never seriously loved your bike.

And if you want to know the passion and joy that one experience in restoring a motorbike – then go meet a coffee maker who brews his morning cup – from start to finish.

Drinking an espresso out from a machine – and treating yourself by preparing it all by your self are two distant experiences – which can be never ever compared.

Restoring a bike is like manufacturing it – or inventing it – all by you! You get so much information about the bike which is all self experienced, and more importantly the emotions while restoring are priceless.

The first ride on a self restored bike – gives an eternal glow on the riders face, a sense of confidence in his ride and an extremely happy and satisfactory heart.

So let us start – A start to finish – step by step guide to restore a motorbike.

Locate the Bike for restoration

The first step is to select an appropriate machine you want to restore.

Generally bike riders restore their own old bikes, lying in their garage. These bikes have already gone past their time, and if you are looking for something like this – then you need to do a lot of refurbishing.

If you are looking to restore a bike – which is still running on the roads, then it will need basic restoration and some finishing touches.

So firstly make sure which kind you want to restore – and if you don’t have either of them, look for a decent purchase on any of the online or offline bike selling platform.

Great places to find bikes online:

• Cycle Trader
• Cycle Soup

Once your bike is all restored and ready to go, you may need to register it again if it did not have a title.

Visit your local Mechanic and get some Manuals

The second step is consulting a local adviser and buying some manuals. Generally we commoners don’t know much about a bike’s parts and their availability, especially if the bike has grown too old.

So a local help is always the best start. Visit your local garage or mechanic and show the model of the vehicle you are looking to restore. He can take a look at what needs to be done to your bike and help you make a plan to rebuild it section-by-section.

Most importantly he will give you practical suggestions about your bike – whether it is repairable or not, how costly the restoration is, and lastly how much life this restoration is going to provide to the bike. These questions will actually help you take a decision early on. If he gives you a thumbs-up, then it’s a green signal for you to start.

The next thing is to look for service manuals. Do not confuse these manuals with owner’s manual which generally comes with the purchase of the motor.

An owner’s manual just covers the basics and is of very less to no help if you are restoring. A service manual will guide you through everything from changing your oil to completely rebuilding your engine.

Choose one from the three most common Service manuals.

• The Haynes – This is the most basic version which covers only the essential details of restoration. If you have a bike which is not too old and needs some basic level servicing and restoration – then this manual should be enough. It just focuses on the important basics like, oil changes, tire changes and engine rebuilds.Check out Haynes manuals here
• Clymer® Manual – If the bike needs some heavy work, then you will need this manual. It covers wide technical details and has more step-by-step guidelines on how to work on them. Clymer Manuals have in-line specifications for all bike parts and even tightening specs all sizes of bolts.Check out Clymer Manuals here

• OEM Service Manual – This includes every single detail of your bike, specific to its year and model with all the content that you require. This manual is actually used by technicians and other motorbike servicing companies.

Quick Tip – Buy the manual that fits your need from Amazon or other online portals – but when restoring the bike print a hard copy. Because when you get sweaty and dirty and black – in oil and grease and rust dust – you will probably not want to touch anything on your phone or I-pads.

Photograph while Stripping the bike down

After the manual – the first thing you will actually do – is stripping the bike. Take a very important note before you touch your bike. Photograph everything!

Placing the wires and small screws and nuts in their place is very important. And mostly this is where people mistake a lot. Losing parts are worse and putting something back together exactly the way it was – is very difficult. If you will have photographs – you will be able to arrange things the way they actually were.

Check the Battery and the Electrical Units

You can start your build process by checking the battery as it is the most basic and requires almost no mechanical work. Below is a checklist you need to follow:

• Check the voltage on your bike’s battery.
• Charge the battery. This will usually take about 10 hours so you can leave the battery on charge and till then work on some other parts.
• If the bike has not aged much then the battery might be usable. However if it is not working then you will have to replace it. And in that case – buy a new one.

Once your battery is fully charged or you’ve purchased a new one it is time to check your bike’s electrical system. Ignite your bike and turn on the headlights and press the turn signal buttons. If the lights are sharp and shiny then the bulbs are good.

Other than these the lights on gauge cluster (which displays information like speed and distance) should be properly illuminated.

If they are not in working conditions you will have to buy new bulbs for headlight and turn signals. This will cost you around 120$.

If the gauge cluster bulb is not displaying light – then you need to purchase a small bulb which fits right below the display panel. The bulb is cheap but the real challenge is to reach the bulb placement holder which will need a lot of your effort.

If the bulbs are fine and the issue is with wiring – then this will need a lot of your time. You will need electrical testers to make sure which wire is not working and then you will have to replace it. Again this will not be expensive but it will be time consuming.

Related:

• Do you want to make restoring bikes your career? Learn about the best motorcycle technician schools here.
• Learn how to start a motorcycle club
• What are bagger motorcycles?

Clean or Rebuild the Carburetor and the Gas Tank

Old bikes have carburetors for fuel delivery system. There is a likely possibility that it might have rusted or blocked. So the next thing is cleaning it.

Clean the Gas Tank along with the Carburetor. You can use mild acid with some tools to scratch off the rust and dirt.

Note – Keep some soft brushes and mild acid handy – because you will need them a lot in your restoration process.

You will get to know the actual working condition of the Carburetor once you start the bike. If the bike fires well, then you are lucky – but if the bike is not performing – then the problem needs more than cleaning.

You will need a full rebuild! Because the fuel pipe must have choked out –

Pull the carbs out and take a look at all the jets and gaskets. If the gaskets look more brittle they need restoration. Purchase a carburetor rebuilds kit which has new factory jets and gaskets, and replace the new one (gaskets) in your Carburetor.

A full Carburetor and Gas Tank rebuild will cost you round about 250$.

Check the Spark plugs

After the fuel system restoration – remove the spark plugs. If they are dirty and you are unable to locate the spark terminal, you should probably replace them. A single spark plug will cost around 10$, and their quantity depends on the model of your bike.

With this – the fuel system and the crucial parts of your ignition system are mostly rectified.

The Chain and the Sprockets

Now we will be dealing with the restoration of the mechanical parts of your bike. Restoring these will not be time consuming and mostly will be inexpensive too.

Chain and sprockets mean a lot in your ride. Check out if the chain has any signs of rust or extensive wear. Look for stretched out chain portions too. If the chain looks shiny and stiff then you can continue with it – but just for your note – it’s a pretty good rule of thumb to go with a whole new chain while restoring a bike. And the reason is – that rust makes the metal brittle, and if the chain is weak and breaks while you are on the run, it can be pretty dangerous.

Secondly check your sprocket teeth. If they are worn down and not sharp – replace those as well.

If you have a shaft driven bike (because earlier models of motorbikes were shaft driven) then you will not need this part, or else you will have to spend an easy 170$ on a new chain set and front and rear sprockets.

Check the Tires

Your tires are for your bikes – what legs are to you. So they really are very important. Make sure they are in good condition before you take your bike out on the roads.

Start with a wash. This will remove the dirt and small pebbles and mud and will give a clear view of your tires and wheels condition. Check the general wear and tear of the brakes. Look for cracks. If the rubber is in a depleted condition or you are not having a good balance on the bike – change the tires.

Related

How to dispose of brake fluid

Rust on the rim of the wheels cane be removed but they should not be out of shape or have dents. If there are any you might need to change new wheels altogether and that can be expensive.

Along with the tires – check the tubes – because if the bike is old there is a good chance that the bike will not be installed with tubeless ones. Tube generally should be in a good condition as it is inside and protected. Check out for punctures – if there are any fix them.

If you are buying a new set of tires check the manual for the recommended fit – but as you are buying a new set – you can always go for your personal choice. You can change the original fit to a bigger and larger one. And you can also buy tubeless ones for a better and puncture – free experience.

Good Quality Front and rear tires should cost you around $350.

Change the Brakes and look for the Shocks

The next one in your check list should be brakes. If your bike is new than mostly it must be installed with disc brakes, but if it is a vintage vehicle than chances are that it might be sporting drum brakes.

Disc Brakes

Disc brakes are generally easier to maintain and have a lot more stopping power. Take a look at your rotors and replace the pads.

You will need to do some exercise in bleeding the air out of your brakes or else buy a vacuum bleeder and do it the quick and easy way.

The next check is on the calipers and pistons. If both are in good condition i.e. if they are not completely rusted than a basic cleaning should be enough. Too much rust and pitting means you need to replace them and for that buy a caliper rebuild kit.

The total average cost for pads and caliper rebuild should come around 160$.

Drum brakes

Drum brakes are an enclosed system. Pull off your wheel–either just the rear wheel or the front and rear wheels (this depends on your bike’s model)–and remove the drum cover to check the condition of your brake shoes.

If the shoes are not in good shape you will have to replace them which will cost you around 60$.

Along with the brakes – look for shock absorbers as well. The absorbers should not be rusted at all and if you see any signs of rust or damage on the springs – buy new shocks.

Change Oil

Now it’s time to change the oil. Your service manual will have the information about the best type of motor oil for your bike. If you don’t have it – then Google your bike’s model number and check for the appropriate oil.

And along with oil – purchase a new filter too, because generally filters don’t last long and must have become dusty.

Cost of Oil and a new filter will be around $60.

With this – you have completed all the basic elements of a rebuild.

Customize Your Bike

This step is optional – because your bike is ready and complete and can hit the roads. But it’s always good to personalize your bike – so if you want – read further to look where you can make you bike look YOUR’S.

• Handle bars – You can select from the different available styles of handlebars. Some handlebars have height – and some are low. Choose it according to your fit.

Generally older bikes had wide handlebars – so make sure if they are still good for you.

You can also select good grips for you because the old ones must have definitely worn out.

New Handlebars and Grips must cost you around 200$.

• The Frame of the bike is the next that you might want to customize. Because of time – the frame must have become the worst sufferer – the paint must have worn out, its shine faded, and several dents must have left their marks.

You need to clean and polish the frame – the rust had to be removed and all the oil & grease – and work a little on dents. The next thing you can do – is to paint it according to your likes. Do not forget to use a primer before you paint and a sand blast before the overall process would be an icing.

You can select a different shade for the tank and other parts and put some real brand logos or other tattoos to give it a modern rodeo look.

• Extras – You can add protection to your bike too. For example you can put side plates to cover the battery and air filter. Add an upholsterer to the seat and saddle it with brown or any other royal color leather.

Complete the Paperwork

After all the processes – your bike must be shining and glossing. But remember the last step – proper paperwork and licensing to legalize the motorcycle and make it road worthy. Traffic police in States are attracted to a lot to old vintage bikes – to inspect their paperwork and number plates.

Make sure that if the bike is purchased, then the documents are transferred on your name. And also get all other required certificates and checks done for your bike. You will never want to get police raided in your very first – after restoration – biking experience.

So after completing all the above mentioned step to step processes – take out your bike in the wild – and you will feel the beast back in you again!

Let us walk you through Quick Shifters and take a look at what are they and how do they work. And to understand their usability.

A quick shifter is modern equipment used in motorcycle transmissions.  It allows clutch-less gearshifts in bikes that have manual transmissions.

In simpler words – with quick shifters you don’t need to change the gears by applying throttle and clutch before and after each gear shift. By a simple pull or push of this device the gears are changed. This application has four notable benefits:

• Increases the speed of the bike – and prevents deceleration while changing gears
• Convenient and hassle free ride
• Increases safety of the rider
• Enhances the overall performance of the bike.

How do you shift gears without a quick shifter?

Normally to shift gears you would roll out of the throttle slightly and pull in the clutch. The clutches engage/disengage the power from the engine’s crankshaft.

In the meanwhile the gears which are down the transmission need to be unloaded in order for the cogs to shift over into the next position. When switching gears, we briefly cut power with the clutch and the throttle and smoothly reapply it in order to minimize a disruptive or harsh re-engagement of engine parts. So basically a clutch acts as a sort of go-between for the engine and the transmission.

How a Quick Shifter Changes Gears

Quick Shifters enable seamless up-shifts without using the clutch and even rolling of the throttle. You just need to keep the throttle pinned and tow the shifter and the transmission shifts to the next gear seamlessly.

Let us look the science of this process.

There is a sensor integrated into the shift (Quick Shifter) linkage that detects when the shifter moves. The sensor after detecting the movement – lines the bikes ECU to disrupt the ignition spark for certain moments.

The ECU either switches off the ignition or cuts fueling to the engine for as little as 15 milliseconds (approximate values). This ECU intervention mimics the throttling off and on of a riders gear changes. The major difference is that this is six times faster than a rider’s manual gear change and perfectly every time.

So as you tow the shifter with your lower legs– for some milliseconds the power of your bike is paused. Because of this the gears are unloaded and they slip to the next position. In this process you never are required to press the clutch or do the throttle. The time when your bike’s power is cut off is enough for the gears to perform the whole action.

Types of Sensors

There are two types of Sensors – one works by measuring the pressure change on the shift rod. That is when the rider pushes or pulls the shift rod – a change in pressure is sensed by the sensor – which then on-offs the ECU.

The second one senses the molecular strain in the shift rod to determine the gearshift process instead of using a pressure switch. This type of sensor is costly but more reliable than the previous one because false readings due to vibrations are not a concern in the molecular strain gauge (sensor) since it has no moving parts.

However, most bikes are equipped with pressure change sensors.

How does a Quick Shifter affect your speed?

If you are on manual transmission gear bike – you are required to blip the throttle. Although it might take just a split second – but when you are racing even this time counts.

Now with a quick shifter – the shift is almost instant. It is so fast that it has no interruption on your speed.

When you are turning around corners – you can easily shift gears without affecting your speed at all.

Their primary aim is usually to achieve better acceleration by reducing the time interval between gearshifts during acceleration which results in continuous and smoother power delivery to the wheels.

By a quick shifter one can shift a gear in less than 50 milliseconds. This is several times faster than manual transmission.

600 milliseconds – Time required for an average motorcyclist who focuses on perfect up-shifts. His action encompasses – pulling the clutch, briefly rolling off the throttle, moving the gear shift lever, blipping the throttle, and re-engaging the clutch.

300 milliseconds – Time required for a skilled rider to apply gear shifts, and that still requires skillful and quick hand and leg coordinated movements and impeccable throttle timing.

But this is not where most of your speed is conserved.

The actual science in the maintenance of your speed by a quick shifter is actually biological. When you are changing gears with manual transmission – two of your body parts are involved for one action. Your hands and legs are equally involved. And if they don’t perform the required action in perfect synchronization – than a lot of time (more than milliseconds) is deployed. This is a huge loss to your speed, as it completely decelerates you. Moreover your mind has to take the load, whenever you are changing gears, so that your hands and legs act in coordination.

Now with a quick shifter, only one of your body parts has to perform action. This relaxes your mind as actually no synchronization is required. The gear shifts instantly and no deceleration ever happen.

Now when you are not racing – and riding on streets or in neighborhoods – you don’t have to time yourself to millisecond perfection, even if you are living in Japan – where punctuality is at its peak. So quick shifters are basically used in these bikes – not for time conservation but for the convenience it provides to the riders. The mental stress is so much lowered especially in turns and in traffics. No constant jamming your body over gears!

And now to a very important question –

Do quick shifters negatively affect your gearbox or decrease its life?

If you are riding a bike without a quick shifter than the performance of your gear box depends on how you shift gears. If you make every shift pretty gently, pulling the clutch, matching speed, and then making the shift, then the gearbox will serve you for thousands of miles.

Now if you are using a quick shifter in your bike then you don’t need to worry about all the above parameters – because it cuts the ignition and gently changes the gears. This means that the overall performance of your bike and especially of the gearbox increases many folds.

So basically you spend some of your dollars in buying these tools – and earn them back by spending less on the maintenance. So economically they become free and in addition to that they enhance the overall ride quality and bikes life.

External Quick Shifters

Today a lot of manufacturers are installing this gear changing equipment in almost all types of bikes – whether it is a touring bike or a Moto-racer one. And if your bike is not having this device you can always externally fit it – there are a lot of aftermarket options for quick shifters.

Quick Shifters are available as bi-directional and mono-directional. Bi-directional works on both directions of gearshift – up-shifts and downshifts, whereas mono-directional works only on up-shifts.

The bikes are generally equipped with bi-directional shifters, but if you are purchasing one then go for a bi-directional, so that it can be used for both shifts in your current bike and can also be in any other bike.

There are two types of purchase. You can buy a solo quick shifter kit, or you can buy a comprehensive fuel controller – in which quick shifter is a part of the kit.

We would personally recommend the “Bazzaz” brand – because they make quick shifters for almost every bike. They are a universal manufacturer to this tool and have a specialization in it.

The second important reason is that “Bazzaz” quick shifters can be optimized to your preferences. You can program the ignition as well as the sensitivity of the shift sensors – which will make your ride best tuned for you.

There are other manufacturers too for this tool, for example the Power Commander’s Dynojet Quick Shifter and HM Quick Shifter. Dynojet is famous for the variety of Quick Shifters it offer, whereas HM’s have accurate sensors and are famous for least failures.

These three are the most famous brands, but you can always choose from the vast types and products available online and offline.

Aggressive VS Lazy Riders

There is a lot of debate on its necessity on the roads – where speed is not the key factor for biking. Basically they were designed for faster lap times but now they have become very common and are equipped in many models.

The reason is the ease that they provide to Motorcycle Transmissions – by enabling Clutch less transmissions. They are actual fun to use and they give your biking experience a new shift.

Many bikers also believe that the real sport or real biking experience is in manual transmission vehicles. Quick Shifters and likewise tools make your biking experience mild. It is like riding a scooter or a moped if you are riding a bike with these supportive tools.

But this is not at the deal. In actual quick shifters give you lot of sporty feel. You can ride at high speeds, and unforced deceleration almost gets neglected.

The second reason is sharp turns – you can have sharp turns without decreasing your speed. This is one of the most adventurous experiences that you can pursue – in biking. And never ever try this without quick shifters in your bike.

And finally it is not about lazy riders – but the real this is that it makes your ride safe. Statistical data shows a downward shift in accidents which were caused because of gear transmissions – if the bikes were equipped with this tool.

In race bikes this becomes a must because high speed causes a lot of accidents – but this is a necessity in your every day biking experience as well, especially within the urban areas, where you will come across a lot turns and twists and face a lot of commuter traffic.

There is only one drawback for using quick shifters and that is – you get uncomfortable if you are using bikes which don’t come with one of them. But you really don’t need to worry a lot about this – because manufacturers graph shows a growing pattern for using this tool in modern and future bikes.

Quick Shifters have become very common now – and if you are looking for something more technologically advanced then tune your bike with “Auto Blip Downshifting” which might become the cutting edge tool for electronically enhanced motorcycle transmissions.

We will cover about them in the next post.

For now – if your bike is lacking a quick shifter – then find the best one for you and ride safe and in style.